Formerly known as MYG HANDMADE 2015-2019, Gabbard rebrands in 2020 to KREOSOTE.
Inspired by an Era of determination, I build 50 Kustom Heirloom boots per
year and appreciate your support of Traditional shoemaking craftsmanship
each pair of KREOSOTE Boots are crafted using a single pair of hands.
Gabbard from KREOSOTE builds only Kustom (Made to Measure) bench-built traditionally handcrafted boots from your personal outlined foot tracings and foot measurements, they are not manufactured from a Goodyear Welted Machine nor were they made using any type of Gemming fabric, they are
Traditionally built one at a time...by a single pair of hands.
The LAST is first!
And the most important treasure of all in a shoemakers collection of tools, after searching years for a structural form that was magically unique in every way I acquired the "Drifters Last" a vintage 1943 Vulcan
Wooden LAST that solidified the direction and became the conner stone of my design references and appreciation for mid-century American Folklore.
Old School Modification...
The Kustom modification of this original 43 Vulcan wooden Last is what separates the profile and fit of a KREOSOTE boot with its vintage style from the past and fit for the future, it was modified using a technique called (Fitting up) and a variety of materials were used in the process such as (Carpenters Wood Filler) to create a modified and unique design shape from this classic American Maplewood Last.
A new series of wooden KREOSOTE / LAST are being hand carved for 2020 and will be available soon.
Kustom Foot Measurements...
Once the Foot Tracings and Measurements are reviewed and calculated to the exact millimeter the process of (Building up) the Last with strips of Veg-tanned leather are added to the clients personal (foot form) LAST, formulating to the nearest foot measurement replication.
Using a single pair of hands, along with Traditional hand cranked Machines your boots were crafted using European Shoemakers methods, from hand-cutting the leather templates to hand-cranked sewn stitched tops.
A European Holdfast / Channel are hand cut into the 12 Iron Insoles then Hand-Lasted, and Hand-Welted using a Traditional German 270 / 360 degree 3/4" veg tanned
leather Welt which requires 4 to 5 hours of work to complete.
The XXX Back-Curve...
Designing and building boots inspired from the 1940's era with a classic look from the past was a true challenge that
based itself entirely on the design element of the
"KREOSOTE (signature) XXX Back-Curve Heel Counters" which
consist of 9 separate pieces of leather securing the heel in
place and allowing a fit unlike any other.
This designed back curve is what makes a boot from that Era
stand out above all else, and this design most importantly signifies a classic Vintage inspired boot.
Structured Toe Box...
I build all my boots with a Traditional Toe Puff, (Preparing the Upper) Toe Box is a Traditional method that takes 2 or more hours to perfect, allowing the sizing, cutting, shaping, and molding of the leather Toe Puff to fit the boot box perfectly, creating the most accurate and truest Profile that the LAST and it's originally designed shape was intended.
There are several Ounce Weights of Veg-tanned leather to
choose from and it's a highly regarded procedure at KREOSOTE to apply these Traditional Shoemakers skills on every boot built.
This Ain't No Hobby...
I build boots the old school way, one at a time...with a single pair
And yes it takes awhile.