KREOSOTE
JD Gabbard from KREOSOTE builds only Kustom (Made to Measure) bench-built traditionally handcrafted boots from the Clients personal outlined foot tracings and foot measurements, they are not manufactured from a Goodyear Welted Machine nor were they made using any type of Gemming fabric, they are Traditionally built one at a time...by a single pair of hands.
The KREOSOTE Boot Series are all built following a Traditional Shoemakers construction method.
Boot Uppers...
Consisting of the Vamp, Quarters, Counters,
Bellows Tongue, and Cap Toe are all hand cut using Full-grain leather from American Tanneries, Stitched with a Singer 1940s hand cranked long-
arm and or Post bed stitcher.
Counters...
The KREOSOTE signature XXX Back-Curve is not only a unique aspect to the boots design looks but it provides structural support using a reverse saddle seam and NINE separate pieces of leather to the interior construction of the Heel Counter allowing relief of tension to the Achilles arch-line.
Structured Toe Box...
Preparing the Upper Toe is a Traditional method that takes 2 or more hours to perfect the sizing, cutting, rasp shaping, and molding of the 3oz veg leather Toe Puff to fit the boot box perfectly, allowing the boots profile to be defined exactly.
In Sole Hold-Fast Channel...
Connecting the tops to the Veg Tanned leather bottoms, I hand cut 10 mm Sole Bend leather Insoles and use a Traditional German Welt method to prep the HOLD-FAST / CHANNEL for the Hand Welt that are carefully hand cut and shaped to prepare the 360 degree Inseam stitched Welt with Waxed thread around the boot. This again taking more time... about 3 hours but being the best way to attach the uppers to the bottoms and making the soles re-sole-able when needed.
Shank...
Developing a smooth walk with a thick soled boot requires a properly placed Metal Shank and perfectly shaped leather Shank supports and Arch-Cover, then cork and leather filler are cemented to the Insole underside at the Heel to the Waist of the sole giving the Spring-toe a nice roll to the walkers stride.
Out Sole / Mid-Sole...
The 10 mm Veg-Tanned Leather Outsole is then Stitched either 270 / 360 degrees to the Welt of the boot with a vintage "Gritzner" Hand-Cranked out sole stitcher or by hand and the optional rubber sole can be added to the Mid-sole with various tread patterns available.
Heel Base...
A leather Rand is then attached
with 10 small wooden nail pegs before the 5/8 inch single stacked leather Heel base is attached with metal nails in the final constructing of a 1.25 inch Heel.
Edge Work...
The boots are then finished with antique Edging tools and a light cream and wax is rubbed into the leather giving the boot a waterproofed finish.
KREOSOTE
request that all clients read through the "Client Info" section for further
Foot Outline Tracing measurements
and general sizing info.