This boot design is apart of the NINE dITCHES Project K 2020 FOLKLORE series, and the release date was Held Back until January 2021.
The oNE uNDERTAKER Design Pattern is the same as the NINE dITCHES boot Pattern but features a modified LAST Form that was redesigned from the original N.D LAST, with a lower Toe Box Rail Edge and a deeper cutting at the Medial & Lateral sides revealing a more Stylish Silhouette Profile for Semi-dress attire.
Inspired by a story from my families American Heritage Kinfolk Tales about one of my great Uncles that made a living traveling throughout the 1940's from town to town collecting souls as a card shark, unfortunately all roads come to an end and the local uNDERTAKER found him in a ditch just outside town with the Nine of Spades in his front pocket.
Featuring the American based "Wickett and Craig Tannery" of Pennsylvania established in 1867.
I chose the uncommonly used Natural-Russet Harness Drum-dyed, Full grain veg tanned hide for this boot because of its ability to resemble a type of leather that was used locally by German-American shoemakers throughout the Kentucky hill country back in the 1930's.
Its Deep bold signature Burgundy color was developed by Gabbard using a series of Red and Black Walnut dyes allowing the twice Oil Ink Treatment to accent the properties in the grain on this hide achieving a shorter overall break in time as the Red over Red patina ages revealing the grain underneath.
The 12 Iron Half-Soles are cut deeply into the feather line edge at the Waist to the Breast of the Heel. A uniquely Straight Cut and "Beveled Spoon Edge" Heel are stacked to create a Traditional Profile with Red over Jet Black oiled dyed edges that are treated and re-dyed reveling each layer of Leather with a different aging Red Grey-Ash effect.
Every aspect of this boot build is uniquely technical and follows Traditional European shoemakers methods, the clients personal outlined foot tracing and width measurements are required for boot.
LAST: ND1UT- 327
LEATHER UPPERS: Wickett & Craig Harness \ Russet Natural veg tanned 5 oz (Grain Side)
COLOR: Natural Russet with In-House HAND DYED Twice Treatment: Red over Red-Black Exterior+Red Interior Finish.
WIDTH: Modified B,C,D,E,EE
THREAD: Bonded 138 BLACK
EDGE COLOR TREATMENT: Red/Black (Hand Dyed)
TOP HEIGHT: 5 inch with 8 Jet Black Brass Eyelets.
HEEL COUNTER: KREOSOTE signature XXX Back-curve Heel Counters.
LACE: Full-grain Flat cut 7 oz leather.
TOE PUFF: Structured (3oz Leather)
IN-SOLE: Leather 10-11 Iron, Hand-cut Channel / Holdfast, Hand in-seam stitched 3/4 inch 360 degree Welt, with Full-grain Leather covered removable 1/8 inch Blue-cloud padded insole.
LEATHER: FULL MID-SOLE: Veg Tanned 10mm (1/4 inch)
LEATHER: HALF SOLE: Veg Tanned 10mm (1/4 inch)
OUT SOLE STITCHED: Two Rows / Gritzner Hand crank.
HEEL: "Beveled Spoon Edge" (Dress style Woodsman) Leather stacked 1 inch.
The NINE dITCHES Boot has a 18 month waiting list.
After placing your purchase order, go to the Customer page on this site and view the Measurement guide Tech Info and then Direct Message Gabbard (firstname.lastname@example.org) To communicate further about the measurement process procedures.