PaRLOR SkAR-JUNIPER GREEN
Limited Edition of 10 Kustom pairs color JUNIPER GREEN.
The Engineer boot has swung back in forth through the revolving door of time over its lengthy Heritage Design History and its adaptation will continue to be revitalized by many Shoemakers to come.
Derived from the 1936 Lifestyle effects and choices of a Drifters habit.
Traveling along Americas Blue Highways and Backroads to frequent the private Gentleman's
Underground gambling clubs,sharply dressed to appeal to the women,the drinks and the smoky atmosphere a dapper society of tenacious men and women abide by the code of charter that influenced self esteem and style with scars worn like badges of survival.
“The LAST is first”
A great deal of time and research went into developing this Engineer Boot LAST, from carving it from a single block of wood to the numerous attempts to reshape and prototype build each version. It’s been 2 years in the making with 9 solid build attempts, settling on the most unique LAST profile of the prototypes the LAST was copied and produced into a small number of sizes, offering this Limited Edition build a one of a kind profile look.
A nicely designed LAST defines a Fit that is unique and more form fitting around the Heel, the Waist and Toe, which are not common for an Engineer Boot. Ignoring the bulky round toe and loose shaft that so many Engineers favor based on Pant leg width from a definitive era allowed a design option for the straight leg boot cut selvedge or chino giving this Stove Pipe a Form Fitted Waist purposely placed dropped Buckle line and a Straight cut Heel-Breast with Beveled Heel edge and leather half sole allowing more options to your pant styles and pattern cutting that will offer a balance to ones collection.
I’ve always favored a strong Design Profile in my boots which can only be achieved by the result of a well formed Fit (foot measurements) and a unique overlooking Toe shape.
The “overlook” isn’t discussed that much but in the world of shoemakers it defines the true aspect of quality shoe design and this slightly squared off toe is the first impression the boot makes when you enter the room.
I choose to use the strong hand of the Harness Drum-dyed, Full grain veg tanned leather from the American based "Wickett and Craig Tannery" of Pennsylvania established in 1867 for this boot because of its ability to resemble a type of leather that was used locally by German-American shoemakers of the 1930s era.
A Dark Juniper Green hand dyed color treatment that Gabbard from KREOSOTE applies to each of the TEN Boots makes them unique, the multi ink dyed process is hand-worked into the Natural Color of the Veg Tanned Leather hide yielding extremely warm rich green tones at first then 7 more oil ink applications are applied creating a balance of tones with deep dark browns, blacks and greens revealed in the folds and creases under the changing day light of time and wear.
The 12 Iron Half-Soles are cut deeply into the feather line at the Waist and Breast of the Heel creating a Traditional shape with Black oil ink dyed edges that are treated and re-dyed reveling a uniquely
ASH-GRAY-BLACK layer of Leather with a different aging effect to each of the stacks.
SOLID BRASS BUCKLE:
I couldn't just go out and buy any Buckle, the size and quality had to match the rest of the materials of the build so I designed one, but my skills as a metal smith are less than perfect so to achieve perfection the buckles would have be commissioned through the highly skilled hands of the American based Artisan Michael Randazzo from Huron Brass Works, each buckle is shaped and hammered into a tinny work of art with stunning results.
Every aspect of this boot build is uniquely technical and follows traditional European & American shoemakers methods, the clients personal outlined foot tracing and width measurements are required for this boot.
LEATHER UPPERS: Wickett & Craig- Harness 5.5oz Full Grain Veg Tanned.
(Natural Russet Color Base)
COLOR: (Dark Juniper Green) Hand Blended Dyes added by Gabbard.
SOLID BRASS BUCKLE: Top Buckle 1/2 inch Bottom Buckle 1 inch.
All Brass Buckles Handmade by American Artisan, Michael Randazzo at Huron Brass Works.
THREAD: Black #138 A&E American Nylon Bonded.
TOP HEIGHT: 11 inches.
HEEL COUNTERS:Traditional Engineer style Veg Tanned 3oz Back-curve Heel Counters.
TOE PUFF: Un-Structured ( 2oz Veg Leather Liner)
IN-SOLE: Hand-Welted 360 degree German Cut, Channel / Holdfast.
SHANK: Hammered Flat Metal Nail Shank.
FULL MID-SOLE: Veg Tanned 12 Iron (1/4 inch)
HALF SOLE Options:
(A) Veg Tanned Leather Half Sole (1/4 inch)
(B) Rubber Half Sole (1/4 inch)
HEEL:BEVELED/ STRAIGHT CUT (Heel Breast) Leather 1.5inch.
HEEL CAP: KREOSOTE Rubber 1/2 inch.
OUT SOLE STITCHED: Gritzner Hand-crank. Thread A&E #415 White.
IN-SOLE: Removable Veg Tanned Leather Insert with 1/8 Blue-Cloud Orthotic material.
The PaRLOR SkAR Boot has a 27 month waiting list.
After placing your purchase order, go to the Customer page on this site and view the Measurement guide Tech Info and then Direct Message Gabbard (email@example.com) To communicate further about the added Engineer Boot measurement procedures.
top of page
bottom of page